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Here I Stood: San Clemente in Rome

davidl5012

In 1991 I was awarded a travel grant to which I applied by submitting a proposal, which would be that I would travel to Italy and south France and document ancient Roman and early Christian monuments. From videos taken during that time I would then produce teaching tools in the form of PowerPoint presentations. My wife composed an excellent itinerary, and we flew into Rome, obtained an Italian rail pass, and we were off to the adventure of our lives. I am most grateful that I enjoyed this blessing, and all these travel blessings, and am grateful to my university (Lipscomb) for providing the grant opportunity.



Among the many sites we visited, one of the most unforgettable was the church of San Clemente in Rome. It is not an imposing edifice, and it is located in a rather out-of-the-way area. My wife carefully located all the sites we visited; thus, we had no trouble finding it. Thanks primarily to her advance reading of travel guides, we knew that San Clemente was not to be missed.


When one enters the church, built in the fourteenth century, he finds stairs leading down to not one or two, but to three lower levels. To tell the history we should begin on the lowest level where in the first century A.D. early Christians lived. Ancient Romans usually lived in condominium-like structures, sometimes multi-storied. By the first century Christianity had flourished in Rome, and Christians lived at various locations throughout the city. It is thought that several Christian families lived at this location, although virtually nothing remains of that lowest level.


In 285 Diocletian from Croatia became emperor and completely reorganized the empire, which had degenerated for the previous half century due to poor economic conditions and incapable rulers. Besides complete political, social and financial restructuring, Diocletian decided to give Rome a state religion that could hopefully unite its various feuding factions. He close Mithraism, a religion that began in Persia and had become quite popular. Mithra was the son of the sun god who had killed a bull that represented nature; Diocletian thought Mithra would do well. He decided to build a Mithraeum (Mithra sanctuary for worship) and a school to teach Mithraism on top of the ruins of the Christian houses which he probably had demolished. The lesson was plain: Mithra has triumphed over the Christians! The Mithraeum and Mithra school remain for visitors to see, as does Diocletian’s palace in Split.


But Diocletians triumph was short lived. One of his successors, Constantine, was converted to Christianity and in 313 made Christianity the preferred religion. Shortly thereafter a church was built on top of the Mithraeum and school; touché, Christ triumphed over Mithra! Later the current fourteenth century basilica was constructed on top of the fourth century church, hence the four levels of San Clemente. I stood there and marveled at the slices of history and religion.


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