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Here I Stood: Scala Sancta (Rome)

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Constantine was the first Christian emperor; his mother was Helena. Overjoyed by her son’s conversion, she made a pilgrimage to the holy land with the intention of bringing back holy relics to adorn the city of Rome. She brought back with her a staircase which she claimed to be the stairs of the Fortress Antonia in Jerusalem, and the very stairs that Jesus descended when he was flogged by the Roman soldiers and then climbed back to return to Pilate’s judgment hall. Of course, there is no way to document the accuracy of Helena’s claim, but her gift sufficed because people in Rome and pilgrims who came to Rome believed that what she purported to be true was indeed accurate.


Rome had now become a holy city for Christians, perhaps the holy city in view of the fact that the original Jerusalem had been destroyed by the Romans in AD 70, and the present Jerusalem was under Turkish control. Under Christian emperors holy places were established throughout the city: the place where Peter was martyred, the place where Paul was beheaded, and the location of the martyrdom of numerous saints.


Constantine had the stairs ensconced on the grounds of San Giovanni in Laterano (St. John Lateran) which was made the site of the residence of the bishop of Rome, the pope. His palace adjoined the church, where it is found today. Although the church of San Giovanni has been considerably renovated through the years, much of the original remains, including the baptistery.


The tradition developed that when pilgrims would ascend the stairs on their knees, saying a Hail Mary and Our Fatheron each of the steps, they would receive blessings, including an indulgence, time off from Purgatory. As far as the significance of the scala sancta (sacred stairs) to the Reformation, Luther made his pilgrimage to Rome in 1510, sent by his superior at the monastery, Johann von Staupitz, to help him get his mind off his sins. When he reached the top, having said the required Hail Marys and Our Fathers, he remarked that he didn’t feel anything – it did nothing for him.


It was here that I have stood and watched the phenomenon of pilgrims ascending on their knees as they awaited their blessings. I have never tried it myself, however.


[pic of San Giovanni] [pic of baptistery]

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