There are a few cities in Germany still remaining that one can consider truly medieval – Wertheim is one of them. It is not just a medieval section in a large, modern city; almost the entirety of the town is medieval. Additionally, as today is Saturday, the streets were crowded with people buying and selling, enjoying the day, much as was the case in the Middle Ages.
From the standpoint of a teacher, the city of Wertheim is itself a lesson in medieval history and medieval life. Our granddaughter found it especially interesting, and even chose to venture on her own to explore the town, in which our program director “dared” us to get lost, as it is such a small, but charming locale.

Before our tour in Wertheim, local glassblower Karl came on board for a demonstration.

Karl was employed by renowned glass artist Chihuly to teach classes in glassblowing in the Seattle area.



A memorial to those Jewish residents of Wertheim who were taken by the Nazis stands on the site where the old synagogue was located. The people of Wertheim are determined to keep alive the memory of their past, so as not to allow history to repeat itself.

Throughout the city are individual markers in front of the homes where Jewish residents lived. Labeled “Stumble stones,” these small plaques are located among the cobblestones of the streets and sidewalks – where people literally stumble onto them.

An example of one of the old half-timbered buildings in the square

The main square of Wertheim, with the church steeple in the background

Littered among the original houses and buildings are newer structures, like the orange one seen here, but constructed in the old, half-timbered style.

Our program director, Tim, is showing us one of the original bakeries, still operating today under the name given it so many years ago – Bäckerei Fritz Frischmuth, which translates ‘Fritz the Able-bodied.’ Their most popular item was the pretzel, for which Germany is credited as being the birthplace.

The real Fritz was a Frenchman, who gave them the idea to add salt to the pretzel recipe, making it much tastier, giving rise to the bakery’s popularity.

The X’s beneath the windows were, in medieval times, an indication of a business owner’s success and wealth. As such, the city taxed residents based on how many of these X’s appeared on their buildings.

What appears here as a Star of David is actually an alchemist’s sign for ‘Beer.’ The downward triangle within the symbol represents water, while the upward triangle is a sign for fire – both of which are needed to make beer. Any business displaying this sign is letting the public know that they brew their own beer for sale.

Program Director Tim is explaining the chalk writing on the doorway of this particular business. It is a blessing from a priest, after the children of the city have celebrated Epiphany Sunday, during which they dress as the three wisemen, knock on the doors of participating businesses and houses, whose owners then give the children candy and treats – much like our Halloween ‘Trick or Treating.’

The writing of the priest’s blessing: the number 20 represents the year in which the celebration took place (2020 – ‘21 and ‘22 are missing because of Covid), while the letters C, M, and B stand for the traditional names of the wisemen: Casper, Melchior, and Balthasar.

More half-timbered houses

A well in another of the charming squares in the city, complete with decorative statues

The steeple of the local church looms proudly over the town.

The color blue on statues or buildings represented wealth, as the necessary ingredients were costly: cobalt and ammonia. Consequently, very few blue houses and statues exist.

The former town hall displays the city coat of arms, clearly influenced by the presence of the Hapsburg family, indicated by the black eagle within the design.


One of the oldest buildings in Wertheim, this charming house shows its age in the slightly crumbling timbers.

Atop the hill overlooking Wertheim sits a beautiful castle, accessible by a short—but steep—walk, which Jon was daring enough to take.

The stunning view of Wertheim from the castle wall



The castle’s magnificent entrance gates





A view of the local church from the path leading down from the castle

While Jon walked to the castle and Sage went sightseeing, Alice and I strolled into the church and discovered that an organ concert was about to begin. We enjoyed the music of Bach, Bartholdy, Franck, and Buxtehude.

This metal sign, affixed to the corner of the building, is typical of the way that medieval merchants advertised their wares.

As we were leaving the city, some local musicians were playing in the square, to the delight of residents and tourists alike.

One final view of Wertheim Castle, before boarding our ship.
Loved Wertheim !!!!! Is the castle in use or vacant??? I am sure that organ concert was just beautiful !!