Nuremberg was, for a time, the largest city in Europe. It was one of the favored cities of Medieval Germany for imperial residence. Additionally, popes were involved as residents, as in the case of the Franconian Emperor Henry II and his contemporary, Pope Clement II.
Adolf Hitler chose Nuremberg as his favored city, in the obvious attempt to identify his empire, the Third Reich, with imperial Medieval Germany (The First Reich). The Second Reich was the German Empire, assembled in 1870 and enduring to the end of World War I,
Hitler’s spectacular Nazi Party rallies also took place in Nuremberg, as Zeppelin Field was the only venue completed at the time. Nuremberg was featured in Leni Raffensteil’s movie, Triumph of the Will, made to glorify Hitler.

This is an example of the housing in ‘Garden City,’ constructed in the early 20th Century. It allowed the common German family a nice place to live in the city, with common areas, a small front yard, and a garden in the back to grow enough vegetables and fruits for each of them. Even now, though many of the houses are in need of repair, the neighborhood is well sought after.

This is the first Nazi building constructed in Nuremberg, used for several functions, including training for the SS.

Hitler’s ‘Colosseum’ deliberately copied the design of the Roman Colosseum, as it was meant to give a nod to previous empires and therefore better legitimize his Third Reich of Germany. Though it was never finished, it is an impressive piece of architecture.

The main platform at Zeppelin Field is a mere shell of the grand and intimidating structure it was during the Third Reich. However, knowing the railed platform in the center is the place from which Hitler addressed the hundreds of thousands does give an eerie feeling.

The same platform, circa 1940. The men marching in front were training and carried shovels here; but the intent was clearly to prepare them to eventually carry rifles. The swastika above the platform was blown up shortly after the war ended.

Because Zeppelin Field was open, it could hold several hundred thousand and is among the largest “stadiums” in the world.

Where there now are only a few crumbling support structures used to be large stands for the crowds

The remains of the large stands that once surrounded Zeppelin Field

Our morning tour took us also to Courtroom 600, where the famous Nuremberg Trials were held in 1945. As our guide was explaining, a stage production is currently being held here, thus the set of boxes on the floor. Otherwise, the room is much like it was during the trials.
The bench to the left is where the 21 defendants sat, while they were individually tried. The long bench to the back is where witnesses gave their testimony. And the bench to the right is where the judges sat during the trial. In the open center space was a table from which the prosecution argued their case.
The room was temporarily enlarged in 1945, specifically for the trial, by removing a wall behind where we were sitting, and a balcony was added for reporters – among them was a young Walter Cronkite.

During the actual trial in 1945


One of the charming streets that survived the bombing in WWII

The Schöner Brunnen, in the main square of Nuremberg, is a beautiful, 14th Century fountain, built by Heinrich Beheim. The 40 colorful figures that adorn the fountain represent the world view of the Holy Roman Empire. They are: philosophy, the seven liberal arts, the four Evangelists, the four Church Fathers, the seven Prince-electors, the Nine Worthies, Moses and seven Prophets (Hosea, Daniel, Jeremiah, Ezekiel, Amos, Isaiah, and Joel).

The Schöner Brunnen fountain, with the Frauenkirche cathedral in the background

Frauenkirche (“Church of our Lady”) cathedral in the square in Nuremberg is an example of brick Gothic architecture. It was built on the orders of Charles IV, Holy Roman Emperor between 1352 and 1362, in the place of the former Jewish synagogue destroyed during the pogrom of 1349, following an outbreak of the Black Death. The church was almost completely destroyed during WWII, with only the nave walls and facade remaining. The damage was repaired by 1953, and a complete restoration was done between 1989 and 1991.

Inside the Frauenkirche

Throughout the square was a market of fresh fruits and vegetables, sold by locals.

The group ate lunch at Weinstuben – a lovely restaurant off the main square. We thoroughly enjoyed the schnitzel and German potato salad they served us!



St. Sebaldus Church, just off the main square, was constructed beginning in 1255 and was completed by 1275.

The two towers seen here were added in the 15th Century. The church suffered heavy damage in WWII, but has been fully restored.
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